Italy, Sardinia: Alghero and the Coral Riviera
Ancient stone bastions stretch out into the sea. For centuries they protected Alghero, a Catalan enclave on the island of Sardinia. A cultural, naturalistic, archaeological centre, Alghero is also a prime tourist destination: very well served by its international Airport Fertilia and the nearby Porto Torres, a docking harbour for ferries from mainland Italy and France. Its coast, named “Riviera del Corallo” (Coral Riviera), keeps all the promises of its place name: 75 km of coastline, extending from the limestone promontory of Capo Caccia and the beach of Poglina, where the landscape ranges from secluded bays to rocks overlooking the sea, soft sandy beaches, rugged cliffs and marine caves of outstanding beauty.
Sardinian old Catalan town
The middle of fourteenth century marks the beginning of the Catalan Alghero (Alguer Ciutat). In 1354, Peter IV “The Ceremonious” annexed Alghero to the Aragon Crown. A rule that lasted four centuries, which still today echoes in the spoken language, city walls, palaces and churches. In the streets of the historical town centre, the traditions and language of Catalonia are in the air, the same love for the culture, and you can continuously find that particular Gothic style influenced by Arabic architecture, which is typical of Spain and of this jewel set on the Coral Riviera in the north-west coast of Sardinia.
The fortifications and the defensive towers immediately recall the age when Doria's navy (Genoa Maritime Republic) and Aragon’s fleet under the command of Bernardo de Cabrera were challenging each other for the control of Alghero. Among all, three towers deserve a mention: Torre del Portal, Torre de l’Esperņ Reial, characterized by a spiral staircase that allows access to the above ambient and the octagonal Torre di Sant Jaume (St. James). Behind these walls that defy the sea, the old town reveals a treasure of fascinating Gothic art that justifies the definition of Sardinian "Little Barcelona".
The most important city monument is undoubtedly the church of San Francisco, an excellent fusion of two architectural phases: Gothic-Catalan and late Renaissance structures, easily recognizable by the different colours of sandstone that mark the facade. The lower part, with its Romanesque Rose window, dates back to the fourteenth century, while the upper part, characterized by the great blind rose window, is of the late sixteenth century. Indoors the impressive altar in polychrome marble stands out, surmounted by a starry vault of great charm. Particularly interesting are the slender bell tower and the 22 columns of the Romanesque cloister, both in sandstone. "The Sacred Alghero" is completed by the Cathedral of St. Mary, the Church of Mercy with its interesting Spanish colonial-style bell tower and the Baroque St. Michael’s Church.
Remarkable examples of Catalan-Aragonese architecture stand out in the many palaces that adorn the streets of the old town. Tradition has it that the Palace of Albis housed the Spanish and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. It was the head office of the governor of the city and served as a temporary residence for the Viceroy of Sardinia who, before setting in Cagliari, swore the oath in the Cathedral of Alghero. Also interesting are the Palace Machin with its Renaissance portal and Gothic-Catalan windows, Guillot Palace and the neoclassic Lavagna Palace and Civic Theatre.
Along the Coral Riviera: Palmavera, Porto Conte and Capo Caccia
Also outside the walls, Alghero reserves pleasant surprises such as the beautiful beaches of Le Bombarde or Lazzaretto. The calm waters of the bay of Porto Conte are the prelude to the natural area of the Regional Park of the same name, while the entire coast north of the town is continually dotted with ancient military towers. The road that leads from Alghero to Porto Conte, lines the remarkable megalithic complex of Palmavera (Nuragic civilization), consisting of the so-called “royal palace”, surrounded by about fifty remains of huts, mostly round in shape.
The main “Nuraghe” (tower- fortress), the secondary tower and the surrounding village date back to a period between XV - VIII century BC. The long life of the settlement, abandoned because of a devastating fire, witnesses the evolution of Nuragic people and civilazation. The archeological area of Alghero also offers visitors the Pre-Nuragic necropolis of Anghelu Ruju, along the road to Porto Torres near the place “I Piani”. Among the most important archaeological sites in Sardinia, it includes a complex of 38 Neolithic chamber tombs, the most ancient dating back to 3000 BC, showing the architectural evolution of the so-called “Domus de Janas” (Home of the fairies) in Sardinian.
The promontory of Capo Caccia deserves its own chapter, a must-see spot within the Regional Natural Park of Porto Conte. Overlooking a stretch of sea which is a marine protected area, it offers a wonderful view of the entire Gulf of Alghero, and precious shelter to griffins, hawks and gulls that nest on its cliffs, surmounted by uncontaminated Mediterranean vegetation. From the summit of the headland, through the 656 dizzy steps of the Escala Cabirol (staircase of deer), you can reach the Neptune’s grotto, also reachable with less effort on a excursion by boat from the port of Alghero.
Where the sea whips the cliffs with the utmost power, nature has created a geological masterpiece, a wonder of large halls, galleries, deep wells and clear lakes. The tourist route, which is less than a tenth of the entire extent of the cave, begins with Lake Lamarmora (actually is originated by sea water) that occupies the entire entrance hall surrounded by blue-green walls. The route runs among stalactites and stalagmites of all types and sizes, to which man's imagination has named after vague similarities, as if to exorcise the power of the endless work of nature.
Tourist information
- Official Alghero tourism web site (english version): www.alghero-turismo.it